In a gray mood? Go with the pinot
Pinot gris or pinot grigio. To paraphrase Shakespeare, the grape by either name would smell as sweet – or, in this case, as tangy. But the body, character and taste? Ah, but do you want the richness of the gris or the refreshing acidity of the grigio? It all depends on what you want out of the versatile gray pinot.
Both wines are made from the same pinot grape – gris or grigio – meaning “gray” in French and Italian, respectively. Other members of the pinot family include pinot blanc (white), pinot noir (black) and pinot meunier (another red used in the Champagne district).
The grape yields wines for all seasons – and seasonings. Pinot gris, when produced in France’s Alsace region or in Oregon, is an aromatic yet gently perfumed wine, with medium rich body. It partners well with fish and chicken, and other savory dishes. The Alsatian version introduces a slight mineral note, derived from the distinctive soil of the region and the cool climate. Try Schlumberger ($21.99), Trimbach ($21.99) or Pierre Sparr ($17.99) with your next fish dish, whether it’s grilled, baked or pan-fried.
For a less austere style, go with the tasty pinot gris of the Pacific Northwest. In Oregon, Bethel Heights ($17.99), A to Z ($13.99), Adelsheim ($15.99) and Elk Cove ($14.99) all make wines worthy of your dinner table. Don’t miss the MaryHill wines from Washington state; the winery makes a luscious pinot gris with great balance for about $14.
Pinot grigio from Italy is another story entirely. While some wines are meant to be pondered seriously, pinot grigio is pure fun and frivolity. These wines are light, simple, pleasant and easy to drink.
They rarely see a splinter of oak. Stainless steel production is used to intensify their acidity and their fruit. Quaff them by the pool on a hot summer day or as an aperitif before a light meal.
Be careful when choosing a pinot grigio. The wines’ Italian pedigree sometimes causes them to command prices wildly out of line with their characters and quality. One of the most overrated, overpriced wines in the world is Santa Margherita, about $24 retail and often in the high $30 range on restaurant wine lists. You should be able to find great examples in the $10-to-$13 range. Look for Riff ($9.99), LaGaria ($9.99), Stellina Di Notte ($9.99) and Santa Chiara ($9.99). The best and most reasonably priced of these wines tend to come from the cooler regions of northern Italy, such as Trentino-Alto-Adige, Veneto and Friuli.
California usually leans toward the Italian pinot grigio style. Most are tart, sharp and refreshing, as well as reasonably priced. Robert Mondavi ($7.99), McManis ($11.99) and Peltier Station’s Hybrid ($9.99) are fine examples of the juice.
I was able to find all of these wines at Vino 100, Rumrunner, Plaza Liquors, Magee Road Liquors and CataVinos.
Drink these wines when they’re young to get their best characteristics.
Cheers.
Similar Posts:
- Think pink: Try a glass of rosé
- The Wine Column: Festive pairings don’t need perfection
- A young pinot with pop from Hirsch Vineyards
- The Wine Column: Beautiful bargains awaiting discovery
- Wine lovers’ glass clash
Leave a Reply